Ever since I started writing on the Internet, I receive frequent messages of friendship from travelers, writers and researchers. One such message was from Mr. Inayat Ali Ebrahim who has an ever burning desire to be a globe-trotter. He has been to many countries but of late, he is not keeping good health. Old habits die hard. When he met me for the first time, it was a like a bang. He came right at my door-steps, called me out and presented himself in a state of readiness: a jeep with engine reverberating, day long ration in view and a smile on his face. I took no time to join him for a destination unknown.

My friend, Mr. Inayat Ali Ebrahim

He skillfully snaked the jeep out of the city and headed towards sea-side simply saying “Hub Graveyard”. It sent a shiver through my spine and I squeezed myself into the seat. In a while, we reached the spot, a vast area dotted with old graves mostly crumbled due to age and neglect.

Inayat stopped the jeep by the edge of the graveyard and asked me to find out about this historical place which is shrouded in mystery. “Why me, I am not an archaeologist. At best, I’m financial analyst. What do I get out of it?” But he persuaded me to research and dig-out some information.

A tea party on the sand

Balochi Village

After the graveyard, we went to a nearby village and talked with the residents. They were friendly and led us to a make-shift café and made us seated on a ‘charpoy’, a traditional bed consisting of wooden frame and woven ropes. One served us with a delicious fruit cake and tea. Another introduced us to a “camel boy” who had escaped from Persian Gulf states. He narrated how he was tied to the back of racing camels and how he screamed to scare the animal into running faster. There were horrible stories of young boys being maimed or killed in the process.

Later, one person came with a flute. He was a local vocalist and musician, Murad Baloch. He sang a famous Balochi nationalist music which is translated into “My heart is crying”. It was a kind of melancholic music. On another song, those present in the café started clapping hands, moved their feet and necks in line with the rhythm of music.

A baby girl in traditional dress

Source: Zahida Raees Raji

Valour, martial prowess and honor are key elements of Baloch Society and the same is reflected in their poetry and music. As recent as the mid-1990s, the warring Mazari and Bugti tribes spawned a new generation of ballads extolling their bravery and paying homage to those that had died in the conflict.

After about an hour, we left the café. Our main host, Nabeel Waja, asked us to see some of the embroidered cloth called “Ralli” in a nearby shop or store. Ralli was composed of bright colors and bold patterns normally used as quilts, bed or table coverings, cushions and handkerchiefs. In fact, it was “patchwork” through combining scraps of unrelated fabrics, silks, ribbons and velvet.

The old graveyard

Once back to Karachi, I devoted quite some time on the internet and also went to Liaquat National Library of Karachi. In one of the books, there was mention of Hoat, a tribe of Baluch People spread over Pakistan, Iran and Afghanistan. Hoat had to move southwards due to siltation of a bay, previously known as Kalmet. Local folklore and poetry is full of their bravery but does not give any clue as to time frame. They settled down in the areas of Las, Bela, valleys of Malir and Mol Rivers (present day area of Lasbela, Dadu and Karachi in Pakistan). The graveyards which we visited was one of the many such places, most famous being Bhawani Sarai, situated nearby Hub Town.

An old graveyard near Gadani with crumbling graves due to age and neglect.

These graves are carved in the style of ‘Rumi’ and ‘Ghari’. But these are falling apart. Looks like some thieves are gradually taking away the carved slabs. Many graves are just torn apart perhaps by treasure seekers. An important source of history is vanishing as these graves had inscriptions such as names, titles and timeframe.

Buff sandstone is used in the graves. The carving presents exquisite craftsmanship. On the top, these graves have a crown or a turban which shows title of the person. There are geometrical designs and motifs with figural representations of horsemen, their arms and shields in particular swords, bows and arrows. Some graves have carving of necklaces, anklets, rings and bracelets.

All these graves are of Muslims as judged by the alignment of the graves. In Islam, the dead are laid to rest on their backs in north-south direction with their head tilted towards Mecca. (Different religions have different orientation of graves. In Vietnam, I noticed the graves are not in a particular direction. I came to know that when a person dies, the priest decides which way the dead is laid to rest.)

In South of Sindh and Lower Baluchistan, there are a number of graveyards such as Makli Necropolis, Chaukhandi Tomb and Bhawvani Sarai Tomb.

Annemarie Shimmel, a German Orientalist and scholar, wrote extensively on Island and Sufism. She wanted to be buried in Makli Graveyard which houses a large number of graves of kings, queens, soldiers, scholars, sufi and saints.

BALOCH PEOPLE

The province of Baluchistan accounts for 43 per cent of Pakistan's territory but is the smallest in terms of population being only 4% of country’s 180 million people. Accordingly, population density in Baluchistan is hardly 12 person per sq.km.

Countries where Balochi people are living

Source: Moign Khawaja, http://www.foreignpolicyjournal.com

As per Dr. Naseer Dashti, the Baloch tribes trace their history to Aryan Tribe living in the Caspian Sea Region. They speak Balochi which is closely related to Kurdish, Persian and Sanskrit languages. Their communities constitute of small tribes who live in isolation and lost in their own world. However, individuals are deeply committed to preserve their personal honor. Like traditional Pathans, they extend hospitality to guests and ‘give protection to those who seek it of them.’

A beautiful patchwork for scrape fabrics,  used as bed covering or wall hanging 

or quilt    Source: http://s10.thisnext.com/media/230x230/

Marriage patterns are flexible. Though, marriage with a cousin is preferred, many Baloch have married out of their tribe. Women live modestly. They cover their hair with a scarf and wear traditional jewelry.

The land is exceedingly inhospitable like ‘Mars’. There is only a small cultivation of drought-resisting grains. We saw some sheep and goats living on scanty greenery.

Like everyone in Pakistan, Baloch are passing through hard times as there are no jobs or business opportunities. They are mostly whiling away their time in grazing their animals while their women were doing Balochi embroidery on very small scale.